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Hi guys, My turbo is producing a max pressure of 8. The manual says the waste gate is set at I'm thinking the spring in the actuator has lost tension. Has anyone replaced the spring or do I just replace the actuator? Last edited by Dadeo; at PM. That's what happens to them - The spring ages and gets weak. Wreckers won't seperate the waste gate unit from the turbo as they'd rather sell them as a whole unit. Easy option is to fit a boost control valve on the vacuum line that controls the waste gate opretation.

Rgds scott. Yes I agree, sagging spring tension. What boost are you running? Spoke to my diesel mechanic thinking he may need to adjust fuel flow internally in the pump to match the extra boost. A couple of interesting points: More boost and not adjusting fuel will do no harm. Be guided by smoke under boost and load. Richer the mix equals more smoke unburnt fuel and higher engine temps. My paj is now going so much better. I would nearly say 'lively under foot'.

I would like to compare it to another one though. Yep you are spot on there with those comments. I have my boost control set to peak at Most of the time I find the boost only comes up to psi with normal driving but it's like having "head room" with audio Amps. When I got the fuel pump rebuilt the diesel specialist adjusted the fuel rate to match the increase in boost.

Also have 2.

tf035 max boost

I have an EGT gauage and keep an eye on it especially when towing the camper trailer on long up hill stretches. I try to keep the temp from exceeding deg C. As for fuel economy - just did Brisbane to Prt Macquarie and back on the weekend. Not towing this time. Managed I agree, it's very sensible to monitor temps and boost. Always nice to know what's going on. Does the '98 model still run the mechanical pump?

I'm not sure if they waited till gen3 to change it. Did they upgrade the turbo on the later gen 2's?Thanks Dhanush for the interesting thread! I trust the purpose of this thread is to help us understand how the load control on the Turbocharger works than really as a recommendation to go ahead and change the settings!

I will take the liberty of extending the discussion, and here are my views: My opinion is that the turbocharger is a piece of precision engineered component with a calibrated pneumatic actuator and one needs to be sure of the implications before changing the calibration. I am not sure if the ECU gets any feedback signal from the turbocharger to raise the fuel flow to match the changed air flow.

As indicated by AWXB and jdr, the pneumatic line to actuator is to act as a discharge pressure limiter for the compressor. So if the compressor is overloaded, then the stress fluctuations in the rotor leads to higher fatigue and premature failure. It could be a bit dangerous as the actuator is not fail-safe it does not open the waste-gate at failure, and in-fact the waste-gate is fully shut when the shaft fails, as there is no pneumatic pressure to actuate the waste-hate.

The turbine wheel will foul with the casing and make quite a big clank of noise. But the worst will be if the splinter particles find their way into the cylinder. Scary thought. Plus there are other roto-dynamic parameters to consider: if the bypass waste gate is forced open always, then the the turbocharger rpm could exceed the design values - and could lead to resonance if it gets into critical speed band or the impeller tip speeds may simply exceed the design values material stresses exceeding the allowable limits.

But normally there will be significant design margins to avoid such events. What is your finding after your adjusting it to minimal boost? Is it as per your expectation? Anybody has info on how the "variable" geometry TC varies the "geometry"? Would be interesting to discuss on that.

Very risky and tempting proposition. I am trying my best not to fiddle with the turbo as I have no frame of reference and won't be able to revert back to factory settings should things go wayward. I would love to squeeze more performance out of my engine, but I would prefer to leave these to the experts who have tried and tested them. View My Garage. Originally Posted by Sandman Originally Posted by dhanushs. Reverting to factory settings is the easiest.

tf035 max boost

Remember the 'ol carburetor tuning testing. Originally Posted by SKavuri. Normal analogue coolant gauges are slow to respond to temperature changes.

If this mod of adjusting the actuator length is performed for a VGT - vaccum controlled with actuator, you run the risk of damaging the turbo. Last edited by eapen : 21st January at Reason: added info. It is vaccum controlled by an air solenoid through the ECU. It also has the actuator mechanism similar to an FGT externally, but completely different internally. Attached Images. Last edited by Aditya : 22nd January at Reason: Back to back posts.

Originally Posted by eapen. Hi, I have not mentioned whether its the inlet or outlet. What I have mentioned is: that side aluminum side is the compressor compressed air to the inlet side and the other side is the turbine side.

I'm not sure how my post came out.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Resources Latest reviews Search resources. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search….

New posts. Search forums. Log in. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. TF boost limits? Thread starter tbgti Start date May 2, It's running on a 2.

Right now I'm running 1. Is this within the safe limit of the turbo? Also when should ti be able to spoool on a 2. I have about 1. That was not much I have those turbos frequently in my workshop to repair.

Prone to fail even on stock engines How do they fail? Shaft breaking, or bearings seizing up? How much boost will it be able to handle? It seems that it even can't handle stock boost levels Don't get me wrong, I am not against tuning but as a certified turbo technican I would recommend to leave it as is and be happy as long as it works.

These turbos somehow seem not to cope with the thermal stress and shaft rpm they are loaded with, the turbine wheel gets hair cracks and start chipping out, the thrust bearings wear down and allow axial movement until the wheels rub in their housings, the wierd constructed VNT mechanics start to seize up and cause overspeeding the shaft which leads wether to overspeeding distortion or chipping out or lubrication failure of main bearing.

DIY: Adjusting the Turbo Wastegate / Preload for More / Less Boost

I also think a good portion of these failures can be taken down to the common 5W30 longlife "soup"which is like water viscosity when it's warm leading to lubrication failures in the small gap between shaft and main bearing. Turning up boost and adding even more thermal stress from higher injection quantitys to this turbo will definitely not enhance the lifespan of it.

That being said I can not give you any hint how much more boost it will take. Thought in terms of durability possibly NONE. Regards Alex. Last edited: May 8, You must log in or register to reply here. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.After having a good route around the web these came in as a slightly smaller alternative to a TD Essentially have the same fitment so will bolt up to a TD04 setup but are generally smaller, they won't produce quite as much top end but will spool a bit quicker.

Ive been in loads of td04 cars I was just mooching around, I'm contemplating going TD04 at some point but I like to keep my options open and I love rapid response. I'd personally be happy with bhp at the wheels and decent spool tbh so this would fit my needs better than a generic TD Agreed I would be interested to go out in one running that kind of turbo and see what figures etc they make n how drivable it is compared to td04 anything worth a try and sometimes trying something different pays off.

Ct9 hybrid probly cheaper in the long run will always give good power rather than going down this road. Dont see the point in running low boost on a big turbo and have the lag, while i can have a slightly smaller turbo and run it at high to max boost on a standard engine. CT9 Hybrids are notoriously unreliable and the only place to get them now is speedvision! No thanks bud! Makes me lol no one realy looks at hybrids any more, can get same power as a td04 1bar with less lag and pulls all the way to redline.

Aus boys run em because they have no balls for big turbos. How is a smaller TD04 wank? Essentially it does the same job, only spools quicker, potentially almost as quick as a hybrid with a bigger bang.

Speak to any turbo builder for balenced hybrids, blades need trimming slightly and compressor needs a lil work for ct20 compressor blades to fit. Loads of other ways to get a ct9 hybrid, i looked at a t25 ct9 hybrid option at one stage.

The td04 is fairly small for a turbo anyway and realy not that laggy. The tf just doesnt make sense imo. Why not just boost your ct9 to 1bar? Have you been in a td04 car?View previous topic :: View next topic. I've fitted in a boost controller and a boost gauge to adjust the maximum boost pressure.

My problem is I cannot increase the boost over 0. I feel like putting some spacer to increase the spring pressure in the relief valve cheap solution or maybe remove the stock relief valve and block the hole with cap, custom a pipe between intake and intercooler with aftermarket BOV fitted on it? Anyone have any solution for this problem? I would like to show you guys my work, but I cannot post any pic, it says "anti-spam" Back to top.

Google Sponsor. I unsrcewed mine and then filled it with resin glue and then after set screwed it back in. I feel this is safe if you keep an eye on the gauge in the cab. I run mine at 14psi. Although I have had a go at 16psi i felt the engine might not like it?

There are some Thailand's 4M41 triton boosting 2. I will try block the valve and adjust the max fueling this week, I hope do see some result. Wow, i would like to experiment with mine more, but at the moment its my everyday car for use. So, i don't won't to blow the motor. The intercooler on these is quite small and so is the turbo so heat can become a problem.

Try wireing on the fan under the intercooler so it runs all the time the engine is running, helps cool the charge at slower speeds. The only way for front mount is to cut holes, which is not ideal for me. Wiring to make the fan run at all time isn't a good idea, cause the fan is almost running all the time. I've blocked the relief valve and tried to increase boost.

Now i encounter a problem, the boost seems cannot reach over 1bar, once i adjust it higher pressure, the boost pressure dropped back to 0. Is this because of boost cut? My target is 1. I've adjust the fuel screw few times and broke some wire at the fuel pump thereHighly recommend this group for a problem-free tour. Everything went very smoothly and with great ease. Being greeted by the chauffer and shiny black Mercedes in Copenhagen and driven to the Scandic Palace Hotel right in the city centre was a real treat.

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Wastegate Preload Setting

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